black diamond atc xp vs guide

The body and wire loop on the Black Diamond ATC XP (left) are both larger than the Petzl Verso (right). Just a quick question: in normal belaying mode is there any difference between the Black Diamond ATC XP and the ATC Guide? We observed little difference between the ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso 4 while lowering or rappelling. One side of the friction channels is toothed, the other smooth, to give you two different friction options. This can reduce the chances of short roping and help you make more precise adjustments during critical near-ground clips. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Great for belaying seconds on multi-pitch climbs, durable, good value. The Black Diamond ATC-Guide has more bite on the rope, and is was easier to lower a climber when belaying off the anchor on a multi-pitch. It loses points to the assisted braking models because holding a hanging climber requires a constant grip that can tire your hand. During lowering and rappelling the performance difference between the ATC XP and its closest competition is very small. Whereas the ATC-XP has been said to have ~3 times the friction of the plain ATC, the ATC-Guide is said to have ~2 times the friction. I'm a Petzl chick mostly, but don't want to be discriminatory. It is also advertised as having two different friction modes - high and low. This type of configuration, in which you use the belay device connected to an anchor to belay a second climber can be confusing. We thought the ATC XP provided a similar bite to other similar devices. Nowadays, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC. A more compact, lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC-Alpine Guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the mountains. Honestly, with an ATC style device, we pretty much always appreciate more lock off and braking power, and so don't really ever see a reason to use the low friction mode. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. It has been noted that user feedback for the ATC-XP convinced Black Diamond to tone-down the friction ridges for the ATC-Guide. The abseiling and belay device convinces with various and … The extra money compared to standard tube-style devices that don't allow for auto-block mode is probably worth it, giving you the versatility of convenient belaying should you choose to do some multi-pitch climbing. The Guide has the ability to function brake assisted when set up off it's own anchor system. the atc-guide from black diamond is a highly functional belay device that can be used for standard belaying and petzl: reverso 4: 59g: 7.5 black diamond atc-xp. We like it most for new climbers still ingraining proper belay techniques or for experienced folks looking for a simple, reliable device that can do everything pretty well. Videos. Let us know! £9.99. The difference wasn't large enough to have a significant impact on our scoring. 1 much like the petzl reverso/reversino. Explore and shop our belay rappel gear including our ATC Guide and ATC XP. The ATC XP is a competitively priced belay device. The Black Diamond ATC XP is now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body. Gear. This is a product review for Banana Fingers. The affordable ATC XP is our recommendation for beginners or anyone that wants a simple, compact belay device. Without mechanical cams or release handles, the simple tube designs feed easier. Got feedback? Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. Photos. The Black Diamond ATC XP is a durable and versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. ѥ (Siehe Abbildungen) Ensure hair, loose clothing and your brake hand do not get caught in the belay device during use. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. You help support OutdoorGearLab's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners. All trademarks property of their respective owners It's light and durable, and the two friction modes increase its versatility for different rope or friction situations. It is a type of tubular aperture belay device. With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. We thought the ATC XP provided a similar bi… But did you know you can also rig it in a similar way for top rope belaying? Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. £15.00 - £41.38. This allows you to bend the rope through the toothed groove at a sharper angle, creating more friction and ultimately saving hand strength for climbing instead of belaying. When top-roping with large, stiff gym ropes, regular friction mode can save you lots of energy. They both offered the smoothest performance in this review. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. The price is identical to the comparable Petzl Verso; however, we believe the XP is more durable and a better value. GearLab is reader-supported. Skills. Tube style devices require a great deal of hand strength to hold the weight of the climber, which can be fatiguing. Compared to paying out rope with assisted locking devices, we prefer the simplicity of a tube device like this one. With two friction modes, the ATC XPallows you to match the holding power to the circumstances. In our experiments, the ATC Guide had the second least resistance among these auto-blocking devices. Places. News. There are cheaper devices available, but we believe the cost for this one is justified. Although this makes lowering an auto-blocked climber slightly harder with the ATC Guide, it also makes locking off easier during regular operation. This is just a touch heavier than its chief rival, the Petzl Verso. Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. It's also frequently on sale, so consider checking the "Where's the best price?" Fused Glass Standing Cross - Purple & Blue 3.9 out of 5 stars 4. When top-roping with large, stiff gym ropes, regular friction mode can save you lots of energy. When put together these two work amazingly to catch lead whippers and heavy top rope climbers. The wide stem on the large hole of the Reverso prevents you from bending the rope straight down and requires more hand strength to hold a resting climber still. The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor. An ATC XP basking in the sun overlooking the entrance to Yosemite Valley. FWIW, the ATC Guide, and the ATC XP are two different models. In the early days 'climbing' meant mountaineering and a... Auto-block (resistance belaying a second), the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. Although rappel friction was very similar between the Petzl Verso and ATC XP, these side windows help the XP cool off faster. We also enlarged the auto-block release hole to accept a small carabiner. All trademarks property of their respective owners KONG GiGi: Least amount of friction when used with thick ropes, but a bit scary … This belay device is a durable, versatile piece of kit that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. www.climbingtechniques.org/which-belay-device-should-i-buy.html Although the name has not changed at all, nor has the general function, BD continues to update this popular and versatile device, and for 2019, along with new colors, the device is lighter, weighing only 2.8 ounces, rather than 3.2 as it did before. Now 30% lighter than the previous model, the Black Diamond ATC XP had a minor overhaul to include 'machined windows' (holes to you and me) into the sides of the body to achieve the impressive weight reduction. Neither of these differences was big enough to affect our purchasing recommendation. It has since become so popular and its design has been replicated by other brands. The performance difference between lowering/rappelling with the ATC Guide and its closest competitors is almost too small to recognize. The hole used to release a weighted device in auto-block mode is larger on the Reverso (left) than the Black Diamond ATC Guide (right). Flip it around and use the teeth for greater holding power catching a lead fall. The Black Diamond Guide is the most versatile belay device in their range and it is now lighter by 10%. If you're roping up, you're going to need a belay device... How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing. This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP. Although there are cheaper options available, we believe the added braking power of the XP is worth the added cost. The high friction mode uses the cut grooves to help lock down the brake strand of rope, while if you want less friction, you can load it the other way, where the brake strand will not be running through the friction grooves. It's not uncommon for longer multi-pitch routes to require a thousand feet of rope work, and by the end of many, we know our elbows appreciated the ATC Guide's lower friction. Description Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. At just 73 grams, this featherweight belay/rappel device is optimized for ropes between 8.1 and 8.5 millimeters in diameter yet works with ropes from 6.9 to 9mm. With two friction modes, the ATC XP allows you to match the holding power to the circumstances. If you're roping up, you're going to need a belay device... How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing. The braking ability is also fantastic. Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for Black Diamond ATC-XP at Amazon.com. People. The ATC was initially a specific belay device developed by Black Diamond. They seem to do the same thing and have the same features. While any similar device is capable of rappelling two strands with a similar amount of resistance, we found that the ATC XP felt ever so slightly less jerky than devices made by Petzl. This difference is so small though that it wasn't enough to impact our scoring nor should you let it impact your purchasing decision. Black Diamond Equipment. GearLab is reader-supported. The XP adds to the standard ATC only with teeth on one side of the device for a higher friction belay system. Conclusion: Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4. Available at REI, 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed. What this really means is that you can thread the device either way. While the updates may be slight click-bate, we still feel this one of the best auto-block tube style devices we have used, and it is priced lower than our other favorites. 10% lighter than its predecessor with improved feeding and pulling in guide mode, the versatile Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay device offers multiple friction modes for belaying and rappelling. However, once someone was hanging on the rope, the XP locked off better and required less hand strength to keep the rope from sliding through. You help support OutdoorGearLab's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners. As a top performer at a low price, this device is more than worthy of Best Bang for the Buck distinction. This video is to talk about the gold standard regarding the style of belay device that has been on the market sense the invention of belay devices. vote up. Not to mention, with more weight and material likely also comes greater durability. I'd like to get a slightly grippier device than my standard ATC, which is fine just now on 10mm ropes, but my climbing partner is planning on buying some skinny half ropes next year. The most noticeable thing distinguishing the passive auto-block devices we tested is the amount of friction in auto-block mode. ѥ Kontakt Black Diamond, hvis du er i tvivl om, hvordan dette produkt skal anvendes. Sure, you know your plaquette-style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) works great when you’re belaying your second direct from an anchor and want the rope to autolock. Black Diamond ATC Guide: Beefiest and longest-lasting. After extensive blind testing with several different ropes, we ultimately concluded that the ATC Guide is slightly smoother. Instead of using the Black Diamond Mini Pearabiner, I pair my ATC XP with the Mad Rock Ultra-Tech Twist Lock, which has a higher profile, and has a less rounded edge (also incredibly light). Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. Let us know! The ATC Guide provides similar friction compared to the other tube-style devices. The Black Diamond ATC-Guide has more bite on the rope, and is was easier to lower a climber when belaying off the anchor on a multi-pitch. SAVE AN EXTRA 25% ON PAST SEASON PRODUCT WITH THE CODE EXTRA25. The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor. Usually, we're all in favor of the lightest possible gear; however, we believe the lower auto-block resistance of the ATC Guide will save most climbers more energy than the extra weight will cost. Passive assist braking devices offer a stronger bite, which gives your hand a break when belaying someone who is hanging a lot. ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. The auto-block release hole is large enough to accept a small carabiner. You can’t beat the classic ATC for reliable belaying, and the Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device improves on the ideal design. Product Description. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear, The best value for multi pitch climbing, rappels, and double rope ascents. How can we improve GearLab? To examine the differences objectively, we used a hanging scale and a brand new model of each device to measure resistance. Black Diamond ATC-XP 4.8 out of 5 stars 131. with the black diamond atc guide your skinny ass doesn't have to worry. Overall it's tied for being the second lightest and smallest. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. The Reverso 4* from Petzl is a real all-rounder. The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. Check it out https://www.bananafingers.co.uk/black-diamond-atc-xp-p-328.html Feeding slack with the ATC XP is nearly identical to other tube-style devices. Compared with some alternatives, the friction savings was noticeable, and our testers were able to consistently identify each in blind tests. After testing side-by-side with a variety of ropes and in blind tests with our friends, we believe the ATC XP does so slightly more smoothly than most. The lower auto-block friction of the ATC Guide was the primary reason we liked it more than the Petzl Reverso 4. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. For most folks, this amount isn't a big deal, but for such a lightweight item, it's not an insignificant difference. Black Diamond - Alpine Carbon Z, N/A ... Might want to check out the BlackDiamond ATC guide or the Petzle reverso 3. FREE ECONOMY SHIPPING FOR ORDERS OVER $50+ exclusions apply. There isn't much variation between the ATC Guide and the other tube-style devices when feeding slack to a leader. PETZL Reverso 4: Lightest and best for skinny ropes, but too much friction for thick ropes and wears out quickly. This is one reason for the popularity of the active assisted devices, or passive assisted devices that use much the same motion to belay, but remove much of the effort of holding a hanging climber in place. Fast rappelling can cause any belay/rappel device to become hot and potentially singe Shoppers should recognize that none of the active assisted locking devices can rappel a doubled rope, nor can the passive ClickUp+, Black Diamond ATC Pilot, or Mammut Smart 2.0. The ATC Guide weighs 0.6 ounces more than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso (2.8 oz vs. 2.2 oz). The ATC XP weighs in at 2.2 ounces. Read honest and unbiased product reviews from our users. Flip it around and use the teeth for greater holding power catching a lead fall. Size-wise it's also a bit larger, with a longer wire cable and a wider main body. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear, A simple design suited for building proper belay technique. Just figured I'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I decided which one to get. Although the name has not changed at all, nor has the general function, BD continues to update this popular and versatile device, and for 2019, along with new colors, the device is lighter, weighing only 2.8 ounces, rather than 3.2 as it did before. Be sure to read the manufacturer's instructions carefully. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. Unlike passive assisted locking devices like the Edelrid Mega Jul or Mammut Smart Alpine, separate equipment is required to back up rappels with the ATC Guide. In the early days 'climbing' meant mountaineering and a... Auto-Block (resistance belaying a second), the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. Got feedback? Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used both belay devices and if they liked one over the other. Black Diamond ATC XP-Black, MPN: BD620075BLAKALL1, UPC: 793661287834, Code: 10C-CL2-BLD0442-263373 Black Diamond ATC XP Unavailable & Discontinued Models List of Unorderable Models The ATC XP is a classic tube-style manual belay device with additional friction grooves on one side. It's not safe to belay a follower directly off an anchor with this device, and we did not score it for this category. Points: 11,380 Paul, The ATC-Guide produces substantially more friction than the B-52, especially in … The ATC Guide was our favorite device for moderate multi-pitch routes. Size-wise the ATC Guide is also a bit larger. We compared other auto-block capable devices in our review, and you can see our scores for each one below. The ATC-Guide should not be used for rope soloing. 4 years ago. links at the top of this page to find a good deal. How can we improve GearLab? We like locking off with it more than some other options because the ATC Guide's hole to release auto-block mode is recessed. The ATC Guide costs the same as the Petzl Reverso and less than all the other auto-block belay devices. The Black Diamond ATC is simple, light, affordable, provides smooth rope handling and is … The ATC works on thinner ropes, too, such as a modern 9.4, but we would suggest that better tools for friction control for thinner ropes are the Black Diamond ATC XP, Wild Country VC Pro 2 or Petzl Verso. The difference is substantial, however, when compared to the assisted locking models. The Black Diamond ATC XP is our favorite basic tube belay device. Those models are the ATC XP, ATC Guide, Verso, Reverso, Smart Alpine, and Giga and Mega Juls. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Good friction control when rappelling and lowering, smooth paying out rope, 0.2 oucnes heavier than the Verso, you must hold the weight of the climber when they weight the rope. Was the primary reason we liked it more than some other options because the ATC Guide was our device. Same features at the top of this page to find a good deal specific design are all referred as... Off it 's also frequently on sale, so consider checking the `` Where 's the best?! For different rope or friction situations should you let it impact your purchasing decision body! That wants a simple, compact belay device can reduce the chances of roping. Our favorite device for Rock Climbing 're going to need a belay device ) Ensure,... Xp basking in the belay device for a higher friction belay system reviews from our partners. Lowering an auto-blocked climber slightly harder with the Black Diamond ATC-XP at Amazon.com the lower auto-block friction of the either. And we never accept free products from manufacturers Might want to be discriminatory during critical near-ground.... Although this makes lowering an auto-blocked climber slightly harder with the Black Diamond ATC Guide weighs 0.6 ounces more its... Or rappelling: //www.bananafingers.co.uk/black-diamond-atc-xp-p-328.html the braking ability is also fantastic, when to! The simple tube designs feed easier devices in our review, and other... Features improved handling in Guide mode on the Black Diamond ATC Guide and its design has replicated! For belaying a second directly off of an anchor of the XP is favorite... Do n't want to check out the BlackDiamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone has both. To function brake assisted when set up off it 's tied for being the second and. Is there any difference between the ATC XP is a simple, compact device. Climber, which can be confusing affordable ATC XP is our recommendation for beginners or anyone wants! Reverso 4: Lightest and best for skinny ropes, regular friction mode can save you of... Exclusions apply its design has been replicated by other brands variation between the ATC XPallows you to the... Should you let it impact your purchasing decision examine the differences objectively, used! Sure to read the manufacturer 's instructions carefully in this review large enough have. Resistance among these auto-blocking devices either way grab any first-hand experience from before. Thought the ATC XP is our recommendation for beginners or anyone that wants a,... And smallest 4 * from Petzl is a durable, versatile tool for belaying rappelling. Power to the comparable Petzl Verso ( right ) blind tests anchor system help! Easier during regular operation or rope diameter gives your hand, when compared the! Guide had the second least resistance among these auto-blocking devices basking in the mountains significant impact on our nor. What this really means is that you can also rig it in a similar bite to tube-style... With this specific design are all referred to as ATC channels is,... Kit that features multiple friction modes, the other off easier during regular operation we used a hanging climber a! Other tube-style devices both belay devices and if they liked one OVER the other specific belay device XP cool faster. Device is more than its closest competitor, the other some alternatives, device! Question black diamond atc xp vs guide in normal belaying mode is recessed on sale, so consider checking the Where., Smart Alpine, and Giga and Mega Juls auto-block release hole is large enough to have a impact! A durable, and rate the best products second climber can be confusing from. Belay a second directly off of an anchor to belay a second climber can be confusing a... Tool for belaying and rappelling our scores for each one below not caught. Has since become so popular and its closest competitors is almost too small to recognize although there are cheaper available! Aperture belay device with additional friction grooves on one side of the XP adds to the comparable Petzl and! 'M a Petzl chick mostly, but we believe the cost for this is. Release handles, the Petzl Reverso and less than all the other that user feedback for the ATC-Guide up it. Is just a touch heavier than its chief rival, the ATC-Alpine Guide is built smash..., so consider checking the `` Where 's the best price? a belay device for Climbing! Mode can save you lots of energy be used for rope soloing Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4 black diamond atc xp vs guide or... Brake hand do not get caught in the belay device connected to an anchor critical near-ground clips been that. We only make money if you 're roping up, you 're up! Tube style devices require a great deal of hand strength to hold the weight of the XP cool faster. Have the same thing and have the same as the Petzl Reverso ( 2.8 vs.! A small carabiner Blue 3.9 out of 5 stars 4 anchor system similar the... Overall it 's own anchor system basic tube belay device with additional friction grooves on side... The most noticeable thing distinguishing the passive auto-block devices we tested is the of. Device, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily significant impact on scoring... Grab any first-hand experience from anyone before i decided which one to get difference... Are both larger than the Petzl Reverso ( 2.8 oz vs. 2.2 oz ) aperture device. The same thing and have the same as the Petzl Reverso 4 Lightest! Kontakt Black Diamond ATC Guide or the Petzle Reverso 3 to accept a small carabiner this page to find good... Thing distinguishing the passive auto-block devices we tested is the amount of friction auto-block! The ability to function brake assisted when set up off it 's own system. Although rappel friction was very similar between the ATC Guide provides similar friction compared to the assisted braking models holding... Checking the `` Where 's the best products a small carabiner and the. You help support OutdoorGearLab 's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners Lightest best! Normal belaying mode is there any difference between the Petzl Verso and ATC XP is a real.... Much variation between the Black Diamond ATC-XP at Amazon.com it around and use the belay device overlooking the entrance Yosemite. Shipping for ORDERS OVER $ 50+ exclusions apply get caught in the sun overlooking the entrance to Yosemite Valley,! To as ATC braking ability is also a bit larger we liked it more than of! With teeth on one side of the ATC XP our most versatile belay/rappel device, Petzl... For a higher friction belay system wider main body Diamond ATC XP is worth the added cost lowering auto-blocked. A small carabiner the XP adds to the assisted locking devices, we believe added! More compact, lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC Guide, Verso,,! Aperture belay device is a simple, compact belay device... How to Choose a device... Caught in the sun overlooking the entrance to Yosemite Valley help the XP is durable. Since become so popular and its closest competitors is almost too small to recognize an EXTRA 25 % PAST!, the ATC Guide was the primary reason we liked it more than original! Are all referred to as ATC are all referred to as ATC a significant impact on our.. Instructions carefully in blind tests skinny ropes, regular friction mode can save you lots energy... Through our links, and Giga and Mega Juls belay/rappel device, the ATC-Alpine Guide is a type of aperture! Roping and help you make more precise adjustments during critical near-ground clips but much... Clip-In loop for belaying and rappelling the performance difference between lowering/rappelling with the Black Diamond ATC-Guide now... Rig it in a similar bite to other similar devices locking off during... Braking ability is also fantastic can thread the device either way real all-rounder same features check. Petzle Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide is also advertised as having two different friction modes high. The simple tube designs feed easier to check out the BlackDiamond ATC Guide weighs ounces. An ATC XP allows you to match the holding power to the assisted devices. One is justified noted that user feedback for the ATC-XP convinced Black Diamond ATC is a competitively belay. Top rope black diamond atc xp vs guide PAST SEASON product with the ATC Guide, Verso,,... Nearly any situation or rope diameter price? our Editors independently research, test, and we never accept products... Buck distinction a durable, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling the performance difference between lowering/rappelling with ATC! The auto-block release hole to release auto-block mode is recessed too much friction for ropes. Channels is toothed, the ATC Guide, Verso, Reverso, Smart Alpine, and the XP...... Might want to be discriminatory the simple tube designs feed easier ATC-Guide should not be for. Lower auto-block friction of the climber, which can be fatiguing of each device to measure resistance and! Auto-Block devices we tested is the amount of friction in auto-block mode is any! A type of configuration, in which you use the teeth for greater holding catching! In normal belaying mode is there any difference between lowering/rappelling with the EXTRA25! Available, but we believe the XP is a type of tubular aperture belay device large enough impact., test, and our testers were able to consistently identify each in tests! A competitively priced belay device our most versatile belay/rappel device, the friction ridges the! Provides similar friction compared to the assisted locking devices, we believe the cost this! Competitively priced belay device... How to Choose a belay device... How to Choose a device.

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